In 2008, Mary had the honour of opening the London Graduate Show, with her theme being Trompe l’oeil. It was here that she exposed her unique style for which she was soon to be dubbed ‘Queen of Hyperrealism’. Her first collection proved to be artful and dazzling. Her inspiration behind the collection was the photography of Helmut Newton and Russian constructivism. She also acquired much of her inspiration through Victorian era jewellery. Despite only a small opening collection, Katrantzou’s work had the fashion world rejoicing as she tempted us mere fashion mortals with mesmerizing prints.
For Katrantzou, her models have the same importance as the interior prints used for the designs. Her mantra remains the same with each collection, ‘[she wishes] to put the room on the woman, rather than the woman in the room.’ This in turn transforms Mary’s sweet creations into ‘surreal masterpieces of digital art.’ Her work has tantalized the fashion industry.
First collection
Her first stand alone collection, and latest of her works, focuses on hyperrealist aesthetics. With colour blocking ruling the runway, we are ready for an optic shock in bold colours and prints, lampshade skirts and the use of industrial jewellery. This collection is unique, to say the least, through her conflicting interpretation of the classic silhouette. Her designs explore conceptual features within interior design and manipulate the use of space. Mary ceases to compromise on her innovative designs and the assortment that she provides to the fashion world places hyperrealism as a fashion phrase du jour.
Future prospects
What’s next for the queen of prints? Besides awaiting her next interior inspired collection, Mary has recently won the Swiss Textile Award and is also focusing on a brand collaboration with Atelier Swarovski for A/W 11. There seems to be no stopping her. Fashion reflects a designer’s dream of an alternative reality. While we, simultaneously, choose a trend that we feel captures our vision of the world. Mary Katrantzou’s designs, with their phantasmagorical prints and abundance of vivid colours, welcome an antidote to her abstract designs and languid silhouettes. She transports our imaginations to open a new dimension of creativity, stating that ‘in a mad world only the mad are sane.’ Whilst joining the designer on her crusade to bring forth something different and truly individual to the fashion world, her phrase could not be more fitting or appropriate.
Text Monique Modeste
