“It moves me most when slanting sunbeams glow
On old farm buildings set against a hill,
And paint with life the shapes which linger still
From centuries less a dream than this we know.”
Continuity, by H. P. Lovecraft
The Old Swan and Minster Mill is a real marvel, thoughtfully hidden away from the busy tourist routes in the picturesque medieval village of Minster Lovell. The hotel is set in 65 acres of idyllic Cotswold countryside and unusually consists of two separate parts, with oldest part dating back to 1445. The 18th century half is a lovingly restored mill built alongside the River Windrush.
The Minster Mill
The Old Swan, built from traditional Cotswold stone and half timbering, originally functioned as an inn as well as both a granary and a brewery, which was traditional set-up 600 years ago. This very atmospheric and full of traditional charm place is also known for its royal connections – it is said that King Richard III’s travelling parties may have stopped in the area while visiting the Minster Hall. When plaster work was scraped in a bedroom, it revealed a glowing painted mural of “the sun in splendour”, Richard III’s badge. This room is now significantly named Richard III.
The Old Swan
The Old Swan Inn has hosted many other notable historic guests also in the modern times. Harold and Mary Wilson spent their honeymoon at the celebrated hotel, while Winston Churchill, who visited often, has also a room named after him.
So what makes an excellent hotel? History? Yes, to a degree. Interior? It surely plays an important role, too. But the focal point of a superb hotel is superb hospitality. The Old Swan and Minster Mill has it all.
The room I stayed in had many features I liked straight away. It was furnished with a wonderfully cosy four poster bed, fitted with a new generation flat television screen, and had a free decanter with delightful sloe gin and a box of delicious Cotswolds chocolates. Beside the bed I found there was a hard cover book about English Kings and Queens (which for me personally was much more interesting than the TV.) The rear door opened to a tranquil garden with a small waterfall, circled by a path paved with the honey-coloured Cotswolds stone.
Following it one would find a restaurant with a thoughtfully arranged outside space; inside, through a small door, it was all Tudor beams, tapestries and fireplaces with pieces of armour twinkling mysteriously on the wall above.
In the newer part, separated from the original inn by 3 centuries of history and a narrow road, there was even more to discover. Minstrel Mill, apart from the Spa and meeting spaces, swiftly revealed its another ‘hidden treasure’ – at the back of the cottage, there was an open terrace situated by the stream, which looked like an ideal place for a quintessentially English afternoon tea. The calming sound of water and the lovely scenery have the power to relax even the most overworked and stressed minds. I was even thinking of cancelling all my meetings in London and staying there for another day…
If you resist the temptation of throwing your mobile into the river for some peace and quiet, you can benefit from free Wi-Fi through the hotel – a lovely and courteous gesture, especially considering that not many good hotels are inclined to offer this service to their guests.
Dinner was served in the romantic Tudor setting of the Old Swan. I sat there, looking over the rim of my wine glass at the twinkling candlelight that was reflecting in the brass tableware and the medieval unicorns in the tapestries covering the walls.
My dinner consisted of Roasted Tomato and Basil soup and Oven Roasted Chicken Supreme with Mushroom Madeira Jus, both of which I can wholeheartedly recommend. Feeling somewhat weary after a long journey from London, I wouldn’t want to waste my time in the evening driving around looking for a good restaurant, so I was delighted to discover that the hotel’s kitchen could offer some wonderful options.
The pudding, which was Mulled Wine Poached William Pear, came beautifully presented on an elegant slate plate and became a perfect final chord to a truly enjoyable evening.
I can honestly say I had the best night sleep in a very long time. It could be partly due to a free decanter of sloe gin generously placed in my room, but mainly thanks to the fabulously comfortable four poster bed full of heavenly soft pillows.
Next morning, in the oldest part of the hotel we were served a lovely breakfast, with lots of fresh fruits and a real honeycomb to dig into – which was a real treat, as it brought back the best childhood memories.
The hotel is serene, relaxing and truly boutique with only 16 historical and 44 modern guestrooms. There are also some exciting plans for the near future: in 2014, the Windrush Spa will be added to include an indoor/outdoor swimming pool, sauna, steam and a couple’s treatment room.
One of the most weird and wonderful things one can find at a Spa entrance…
Besides its stunning setting, its great location means it’s only a short drive from Oxford and London, making it perfect for leisure travellers who desire a central countryside venue which is close to Oxford and the other traditional Cotswold market towns as well as Stratford-upon-Avon and Cheltenham.
If to get away you need an excuse, Old Swan & Minster Mill also offers some interesting events you may want to know about.
On the 11 th to the 13 th of October, the hotel organises a special two-night “Antique & History Trail” experience, allowing guests the opportunity to follow the footsteps of King Richard III and discover nearby historical interests, such as the famous Minster Hall, which is only a short walk away.
On the 2 nd of November, the visitors will be treated to a Bonfire Night Experience. Perfect for a family fun or a romantic weekend away together, it will be a memorable time with a traditional bonfire, stunning fireworks, treacle toffee, roaring log fires and piping hot chocolate.
You will fall in love with this hotel – a little gem set in a precious setting of the emerald green hills, azure streams and golden Cotswolds stones.
The Old Swan & Minister Mill is the latest outpost of the de Savary Family’s boutique hotels and follows the successful launch in 2009 of The Cary Arms, Inn on the Beach at Babbacombe Bay in Devon.
For further information visit website or call 01993 774441. @OlSwanMinstMill
You can see a full photo report on our Facebook page .
Text and photography by HT